Yeast-Risen Laminates

Unlike making bread, the dough (détrempe) for croissant and Danish doughs is minimally kneaded to prevent excessive gluten formation. Plenty of gluten development will occur when the butter is rolled in and with the subsequent rolling and folding of the dough. Some bakers like to retard the yeasted détrempe overnight, which improves the extensibility of the gluten network and allows more turns to be done at once. This method is rumored to create the most distinct, flaky layers. Retarding or refrigerating the whole paton (finished dough after butter has been rolled in) overnight will also improve extensibility when rolling out the dough and reduce shrinkage. For both croissant and Danish dough, the détrempe is rolled into a square, and the beurrage is placed in the center of the square, cattycornered. The triangular flaps of dough are folded over the beurrage and pressed together to seal. The paton is given two 3-fold turns and one 4-fold turn, with appropriate rests between. Fewer turns are given to soft-yeasted doughs than puff pastry in order to preserve distinct visible layers.
Fresh yeast is the best choice for these laminates; it works well with cold liquids, with no need for special rehydration in warm water. The dough should be proofed in a warm (80°F), humid environment until it doubles in volume or barely holds a dent when poked. If the dough springs back to the touch, it is underproofed; if it holds a deep dent that does not offer any resistance, it is overproofed. Overproofing results in a product that collapses after baking and has an unpleasantly strong yeasty flavor. Underproofing yields a doughy, unattractive product with fused layers.

MAKES 2 POUNDS 6 OUNCES DOUGH Also called quick puff pastry, this pastry starts out just like pie dough. Very cold pieces of butter, flour, salt, and ice water are briefly mixed, leaving large, visible chunks of butter. The dough is given its turns immediately. The rapid dough will not rise as high as the classic, but the texture is still flaky and delicate, making it an excellent all-purpose pastry. Slightly more dense than classic puff pastry, it stands up well to savory fillings that tend to be heavy. Napoleons are much easier to cut from rapid puff pastry; when sliced, the layers tend to shatter and crumble less than with classic. Puff pastry scraps are perfect for napoleons, since the dough is docked and weighted to prevent a high rise.
Dough sheeters are invaluable appliances for making laminate products. The rollers of a sheeter are adjustable, able to perfectly roll a dough to the desired thickness. For laminate doughs, which start out as a thick block of dough, the rollers can be set progressively closer together after each pass of the paton. In addition to the obvious savings in time and labor, the even pressure applied to the dough by the rollers is hard to duplicate by hand.




